India's technical textiles power play: NTTM & PLI are flipping the script
ET CONTRIBUTORS June 10, 2025 02:00 AM
Synopsis

India's technical textiles sector is undergoing a significant transformation, driven by government initiatives like the National Technical Textiles Mission (NTTM) and the Production Linked Incentive (PLI) scheme. These efforts aim to boost domestic manufacturing, innovation, and exports, positioning India as a global hub.

Representative Image
Giriraj Singh

Giriraj Singh

The author is Union Minister of Textiles

A few years ago, technical textiles were viewed as a peripheral segment, limited in scope, underinvested and heavily reliant on imports. Today, they stand at the centre of India’s industrial transformation. This shift is not incidental. It is the outcome of deliberate strategy, policy foresight and national commitment, anchored in the larger vision of Atmanirbhar Bharat under the dynamic leadership of Hon’ble Prime Minister Shri Narendra Modi. Whether it was scaling up PPE production during the COVID-19 crisis, supporting the armed forces with indigenous protective gear, or supplying critical material inputs for operations like Sindoor, technical textiles have demonstrated their role as enablers of national preparedness and industrial progress.

From Niche to Strategic: The Policy Imperative

A pivotal moment came during a review meeting of the National Technical Textiles Mission (NTTM), where I had the opportunity to interact with the then Chairman of ISRO, Dr. S. Somanath. He underlined the growing need for specialty fibres such as carbon fibre, UHMWPE (Ultra-High Molecular Weight Polyethylene) and nylon 66—materials essential for high-performance aerospace applications. His message was unequivocal: India must build indigenous capabilities in these domains, not just to reduce dependency, but to unlock the next level of our scientific advancement. That conversation reaffirmed the strategic importance of technical textiles in India’s growth narrative, from laboratories to launchpads.

From Lab to Launchpads and Battlegrounds

The defence sector too has begun to feel the strategic value of this transformation. Take for instance Operation Sindoor, conducted recently by our armed forces, where protective clothing and ballistic gear to camouflage fabrics and chemical-biological protection suits technical textiles played a vital role. As we began investing early in domestic capacity-building, today we are able to support our defence sector not just with manpower, but with material that meets global standards, developed and manufactured on Indian soil.

Understanding Technical Textiles

Technical textiles are not about fashion or aesthetics. They are high-performance materials designed to serve a function, often in life-saving or critical infrastructure contexts. These include bullet-resistant jackets, flame-retardant uniforms, surgical gowns, anti-bacterial sheets for farmers, road-reinforcement geo-grids and much more. The sector spans 12 major segments including Geotech, Meditech, Protech, Agrotech and Buildtech. As of 2024, India’s technical textiles market was valued at USD 26 billion. We are on track to touch USD 40-45 billion by 2030, growing at a healthy annual rate of 10-12%. Compared to the global average where technical textiles form 27% of total textile output, India stands at 11%. But with the right push, we are narrowing the gap rapidly.

Driving Growth: Key Government Interventions

To unlock this sector’s true potential, the Government of India has committed a total outlay of Rs 12,000 crore through two key initiatives — the National Technical Textiles Mission (NTTM) and the Production Linked Incentive (PLI) Scheme for Textiles. These programs are not working in silos. Together, they are transforming India into a global hub for technical textiles. Under the NTTM, we are driving focused investment into research and innovation. A total of 168 high-impact projects have been approved with government support of Rs 510 crore. Many of these, like the development of fire entry suits and circular weaving technology for geo-textiles, have already moved from the lab to the market.

NTTM: Seeding Innovation, Skilling India

Driven by the vision of Atmanirbharta, the National Technical Textiles Mission is laying strong foundations for innovation and skill development. While 17 startups have received support under the GREAT (Grant for Research & Entrepreneurship across Aspiring Innovators in Technical Textiles) scheme. Over 2,000 students are pursuing technical textiles courses across 41 top institutes, backed by 16 industry-linked skilling modules that are shaping a future-ready workforce.

Creating Demand, Driving Global Presence

With market development as a core pillar, NTTM is expanding both domestic adoption and global reach. The mandatory use of 73 technical textile items across sectors like healthcare, agriculture, infrastructure, and defence has led to their integration into public infrastructure. Over 30 international events, including Bharat Tex 2025, have amplified India’s visibility. Meanwhile, overall man-made textile exports rose from USD 4.2 billion in 2020–21 to USD 5.3 billion in 2024–25, and reduced imports signal growing self-reliance and competitiveness.

Linking Performance to Policy: The PLI Framework

In the private sector, performance is rewarded. Those who exceed targets are incentivised to go further and boost the employment landscape of the country. That same principle now informs our industrial policy through the Production Linked Incentive (PLI) Scheme. This scheme represents a paradigm shift where incentives are no longer subsidies, but performance-linked rewards. It recognises that for India to compete globally, manufacturing must be treated like a mission, with clear metrics, commercial viability and a growth-oriented mindset.

Together, NTTM and PLI offer a dual engine: while NTTM lays the foundation through research, education and skill development, the PLI Scheme is accelerating growth. Of the 80 companies selected under the scheme, more than half (precisely 56.75%) are working in the technical textiles space. This is a strong indicator of industry confidence. Thanks to this support, we have seen fresh investments of Rs 7,343 crore, leading to an impressive turnover of Rs 4,648 crore and exports worth Rs 538 crore. To ensure smooth implementation, the Ministry of Textiles has taken proactive steps. We issued HSN codes for technical textiles on three occasions — June 2023, October 2024 and February 2025 and also released detailed FAQs to clarify customs and compliance. An important amendment in February 2025 enabled early incentive disbursements totalling ?54 crore.

Our ambitions extend far beyond domestic boundaries. Through the PLI scheme, India is steadily building capacity in high-value products such as automotive safety equipment, glass fibre and carbon fibre. These advanced materials play a crucial role in sectors like aerospace, defence, clean energy and healthcare. By boosting domestic manufacturing in these areas, the scheme is strategically positioning India to compete with leading global textile exporters like China, Vietnam and Bangladesh.

The Impact So Far

The impact of our combined initiatives is already visible. India’s domestic market for technical textiles is growing at an annual rate of 10%. Exports in the financial year 2024-25 stood at USD 2.9 billion. As of March 2025, we have attracted investments worth Rs 5,218 crore and generated employment for more

than 8,500 people. Technical textiles alone have driven a turnover of Rs 3,242 crore, including exports worth Rs 217 crore. This data is not just numbers, it is proof that our strategy is working.

Towards a Sustainable & Self-Reliant Future

Sustainability and circularity are at the core of India’s technical textiles strategy. Natural fibres like jute, hemp, ramie, cotton, silk, and even milkweed are being reimagined for high-performance applications benefiting the environment while empowering our farmers and industries. Nature-based solutions (NbS) are emerging as powerful interventions that blend innovation with traditional fibres. For instance, waste from Kashmiri pashmina is now used in building insulation; cotton and silk are being applied in wound dressings and tissue engineering; and silk is finding use in 3D printing. Jute is enabling biodegradable medical implants, lightweight composites for automobiles, eco-friendly construction materials, and durable furniture. At the same time, we are prioritising domestic machinery manufacturing, with 25 projects underway to produce goods worth Rs 68,000 crore—expected to contribute Rs 6,700 crore in exports—paving the way for a truly self-reliant and sustainable industrial future.

As the Union Minister of Textiles, I take pride in saying that India is not merely participating in the global technical textiles movement—we are positioning ourselves to lead it. With the combined force of NTTM and PLI, we are driving innovation, generating employment, strengthening exports, and building national resilience. From supporting our defence and agricultural sectors to modernising infrastructure and more, technical textiles are shaping a bold new industrial identity for India. And this is only the beginning.
(Disclaimer: The opinions expressed in this column are that of the writer. The facts and opinions expressed here do not reflect the views of www.economictimes.com.)
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