Muharram is underway and Hyderabad is wrapped in quiet reflection of the holy month. On the other hand, the city’s beloved bakeries are engulfed in a different kind of buzz that can only be witnessed in this month. Popular names like Subhan Bakery and Pista House, as well as local bakeries, each one is drawing crowds as trays of Dum ke Roat fly off the shelves.
On Instagram, every food blogger and influencer seems to be holding up a box, declaring “best roat in town”. Everyone has a favourite. And every year, the question returns: who makes the best roat in Hyderabad?
Dum ke roat traces its origins to Hyderabad’s royal past. According to local legend, the seventh Nizam, Mir Osman Ali Khan, offered Dum ke Roat to ‘Nala-e-Mubarak’ Alam near Charminar during Muharram for the safety and well-being of his grandson, Mukarram Jah Bahadur. Following this, people started offering Roats at various ‘Alams’ installed during Muharram and this tradition continues to date.
Traditionally, families would prepare the dough at home and take it to local bakeries to be baked. Over time, bakeries began making and selling it directly, turning a homemade ritual into a seasonal industry.
One of the first bakeries to recognize the commercial potential of Dum ke Roat was Subhan Bakery. While its known for its Osmania Biscuits, in Muharram, it is their roat that draws the longest queues.
In an earlier conversation with Siasat.com, Syed Irfan, the owner of Subhan Bakery, had shared a glimpse into its beginnings. “We started selling Roat in 1971, prior to which people used to come to our bakery with homemade Roat dough and would ask us to bake it for them. This inspired us to rise above the usual bread, biscuits, and other baked goods.”
Today, Subhan’s Dum ke Roat are the top contenders and if often the benchmark against which all others are measured.
Regulars agree too. “Whenever I think of Roat, I think of Subhan. There are no second thoughts,” says Sara, a long-time customer while waiting in line at the bakery. “I always make sure to try all the bakeries every year, but I end up coming back to Subhan,” says another loyalist. A scroll throught the bakery’s Instagram page reveals countless fans echoing the same sentiment.
While Subhan Bakery has long held the crown, recent years have seen new players rising in popularity. Pista House and Tolichowki’s Bakewell Cake House are the most prominent names. With aggressive marketing and flavour innovation, both bakeries are giving traditional heavyweights a serious run for their money.
Already a household name for its haleem, Pista House’s Zafrani Dum ke Roat are being marketed as rich with saffron, dry fruits, cardamom and khowa. They have focused not just on the recipe but on the presentation too with festive gift packs and a strong social media presence helping their Roat reach national and international audience.
“I have long been a Subhan fan but this year Pista House has really upped its game. It is softer and more balanced. I might change my vote after all” says a resident with a cheeky smile.
Meanwhile, Bakewell Cake House in Tolichowki has quietly built a cult following of its own. It has found its niche by going in a direction that is different from Pista House. Their version of Dum ke Roat includes the popular Gudh roat and sugar free roat which caters to the diabetic customers. This is something that very few bakeries have attempted, making Bakewell shine.
Slightly softer and more homemade in feel, Bakewell’s roat has earned a loyal following, especially among families looking for less indulgent alternatives.
Even as these big names dominate the spotlight, there are some names that hold their ground firmly. Karachi Bakery, Niloufer Cafe, Nimrah Cafe and Meraj Bakery are some spots that locals often vouch for and are an essential part of Hyderabad’s roat season.
In Fateh Darwaza, Meraj Bakery still draws loyal customers with its dense, homemade-style roat. “It is not too sweet or heavy on the stomach. In fact, it tastes just like the roat my grandmother used to make,” says a redditor.
In the end, this is not about winners or losers, it is about tradition, taste and personal loyalty. For some, it is the nostalgia of Subhan. For others, it is the innovation of Pista House or the homely comfort of Bakewell.
For many, the search itself is part of the charm, trying a new roat each year, debating over it and eventually returning to their favourites. Indeed, in Hyderabad, Dum ke Roat is not just a sweet, it is a season.
