Along the Welsh coast about 40 minutes from Cardiff lies a seaside town at an interesting crossroads. I visited as it prepared to say goodbye to its century-old amusement park, which was once the main tourist pull.

According to Visit Wales, the town's headline attraction now "must be the abundance of independent cafés, bars and shops that line Porthcawl's Esplanade". And yes, there is a charming stretch of independents, and a cluster of eateries by the seafront. But what instantly stood out wasn't the shops at all, it was the coastline.

Cafes along the front have uninterrupted views across the Bristol Channel and the North Devon coast, and it's the kind of place where you could lose time on a sunny morning with a coffee.

As we walked towards the closing amusement park, the town gives way to sand dunes and a wilder beach, which was the star of the show.

We visited in September, so locals were walking their dogs and the sands were practically empty, which made us feel truly relaxed. If Brighton or Blackpool are just too busy this could be your kind of place.

We didn't have time to explore all seven of its sandy beaches as we were only there for an afternoon, and while I'm not convinced you need a whole week here as the town is very small, I'd definitely return for a longer break.

Plus, it has outdoor activities to keep you busy, with pretty coastal walks and a championship golf course, if that's your thing.

The only slight eyesore in my opinion was Coney Pleasure Park, the aforementioned theme park. While it used to be important for the economy, residents told us they were quite accepting of its closure, that the park had had its day.

However, they did voice concerns about another potential eyesore, with plans to build high-rise apartments right on the sea, which they said would obstruct the views and turn it into a "town by the sea" rather than a seaside town.

The council has just announced plans for a lido, space for a new hotel and a promenade, set to be built right on the seafront, meaning there could be reason for optimism, and to return.

One resident told me that actor Rob Brydon, who went to school in Porthcawl, describes it as the "jewel of the Welsh Riviera" and thanks to its beaches, I can see why.