Being married to a Hyderabadi means one major thing: in our house, we take biryanis very, very seriously. Which is why, not every rice- and meat-laced dish will make the cut. Now, logic dictates that since there are as many styles of biryani as there are states in India, one ought to be forgiving if a flavour doesn’t suit the palate. I’m afraid when it comes to biryani, logic is really not at the top of our minds – it’s more about spice, the need to feel that melt-in-your-mouth meat (which can refer to everything from mutton to chicken to fish), and fluffy, yet well-defined grains of rice.

So it was with anticipation (and some anxiety) that I bullied my husband into a meal at Kovalam, in President Hotel Dubai. They have a new (upcoming) offering that we were going to be able to dig into: the Sultan-e-Raan Biryani topped with 24-karat gold. The grand dish is one of many that will be available between September 20 and September 30 during the eatery’s Great Indian Biryani Carnival.

Vinod Naik, Executive Chef of President Hotel, explains that the idea for the festival “came from our passion for celebrating the diverse culinary traditions across India. Biryani is one of the most popular and iconic dishes in Indian cuisine. And we wanted to highlight the variety and depth of this one-dish meal. With the theme Great Indian Biryani, we aim to provide a culinary experience where guests can experience the flavours of the region. Each has its own unique spices and techniques.”

What does this mean for the average (or crazy-about-biryani) eater? You can choose from a variety of rich dishes, there’s everything from Hyderabadi Nawabi Dum Biryani to something called Bride Show Parda Biryani and even a Quinoa Biryani on the menu.

But coming back to the most dolled up biryani you’ll find in the UAE – why is Kovalam serving a mutton leg tenderly marinated over hours, then cooked to succulent perfection, drenched in a gravy only for it to be covered in gold and silver foil? Naik explains that the addition is a nod to luxury. “Silver and gold have a long tradition in Indian cooking. It is a symbol of luxury and prosperity. Adding these elements elevates the dish. It provides an experience that is pleasing in both appearance and taste. It is also a nod to the royal heritage of the biryani that was once served at the courts of emperors and nawabs,” he says.

The dish, served on a platter large enough to feed at least four very hungry biryani lovers, also comes with a side of naan (flat bread) and extra gravy. “We wanted to enhance the experience by adding naan to the dish. The naan complements the flavour of the biryani beautifully. and offer diners the option of enjoying the biryani alone. Or pair it with soft, freshly cooked naan to add another layer of texture and flavour to their meal,” explains the chef.

But then where does the recipe fit in? According to my purist husband, “not in Hyderabad.”

Naik, however, says: “Our biryani is a fusion dish inspired by many different regions. But if we have to classify, our biryani leans towards the Hyderabadi style with its use of spices, layers of rice, and richness in preparation. But we also included influences from Lucknow biryani, especially in both the aroma and the complexity of the taste.”

At Dh389, this is a bit steep for a biryani, but to be fair, the portions are large, the bites are flavourful, and it makes for a really, truly pretty picture.