2,000-year-old Chinese ‘hamburger’ enters Ho Chi Minh City food scene
Samira Vishwas May 03, 2025 06:24 AM

Located at 193 – 195 Han Hai Nguyen Street, District 11, Thiem Tay Bakery, run by Thai Thuy Tran Tran, has captivated visitors with its flavors and Chinese-inspired ambiance.

With its red-themed decor reminiscent of Chinese eateries, the shop sells around 300 cakes daily, bringing the 2,000-year-old dish closer to Saigonese diners.

Thai Thuy Tran at Her Bakery in Ho Chi Minh City. Photo by VnExpress/Quynh Tran

Roujiamo, originating from Shaanxi Province, is considered one of China’s oldest street foods, dating back to the Qin Dynasty. Its structure – flatbread stuffed with slow-cooked meat and sauce – has earned it comparisons to the Western hamburger. In 2016, the Shaanxi government recognized Roujiamo as an official provincial cultural heritage.

Tran first encountered the dish during a trip to China six years ago. Its flavors and texture left a lasting impression. Recognizing its similarity to Vietnamese cuisine, she saw an opportunity to introduce it to local food lovers.

“Vietnamese people love street food, and Roujiamo shares similarities with banh mi, so I believed it had potential here,” she explained.

In 2019, she launched her first food cart on Ton That Hiep Street, District 11. Thanks to its taste, the shop gained popularity, selling up to 500 burgers a day. However, the Covid-19 pandemic forced its closure after just one year. In 2024, she reopened in a larger space, offering dine-in service and expanding the menu.

Shaanxi Cake basically includes the cow (left) and pork, the shop is modified to retain the traditional flavor and suitable for the Vietnamese taste. Photo: Quynh Tran

Thai Thuy Tran Tran’s Roujiamo features beef (L) and pork fillings, adapted to cater to Vietnamese tastes. Photo by VnExpress/Quynh Tran

Tran’s Roujiamo uses barley flour instead of wheat for a crispier, more durable texture. The dough is kneaded, proofed, rolled thin, and baked at 200 degrees Celsius for three minutes, keeping it crispy outside and soft inside.

The shop offers two fillings, pork and beef, tailored to Vietnamese tastes. The pork filling uses pork hock, while the beef filling features tenderloin, ensuring a balanced mix of lean meat, fat, and skin.

Seasoned with cinnamon, star anise, oyster sauce, soy sauce, and other spices, the meat is slow-cooked for 12 hours. The original version contains over 30 spices and is spicy and oily, but Tran adjusted for local tastes with less oil and spice.

The pork version includes chrysanthemum greens (so o), pickled radish, and chili paste instead of the green chili. The beef version swaps pickled radish for mustard greens and is paired with peanut butter for richness.

“I tested adding cucumber and herbs, but they disrupted the flavors,” Tran said.

Before serving, the burger is topped with a house-made sauce. The shop also offers chicken and fish fillings, as well as Shaanxi-style rice bowls. Prices range from VND37,000 to VND55,000 ($1.45 – $2.15) depending on size, with calorie counts listed on the menu.

“We recommend eating within 20 minutes to an hour to maintain the bread’s crispness and the meat’s tenderness,” Tran said.

Regular customer Truong My Ngoc, 37, visits Tran’s place twice a week, always ordering the beef version.

“The filling is generous, and the sauce is flavorful without being greasy. The price may be higher than typical snacks, but given the preparation, it’s worth it,” she said.

Open daily from 9:30 a.m. to 9:30 p.m., the shop is easy to find along the main road. With two floors and a 100-seat capacity, it is busiest during lunch and dinner, though most customers opt for takeout.

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