Road trip: Chennai to Mahabalipuram; Where timeless history meets the endless sea
GH News July 12, 2025 04:03 AM

Just two hours south of Chennai lies a place where history is carved in the landscape. Mamallapuram (also called Mahabalipuram) is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and is unique because every wall here is a lesson in history.

What is it?

Constructed during the 7th and 8th century CE by the Pallava dynasty, Mamallapuram is named after Narasimhavarman I (also known as ‘Mamalla’, or Great Warrior, the most powerful Pallava king). But a more common name is Mahabalipuram – it became popular during the 16th century CE when locals associated the city with the mythical demon king Mahabali.

How to reach?

It lies on the scenic East Coast Road (Chennai to Puducherry), and is almost midway.

What to do?

Visit the following:

– Varaha Cave Temple: It’s the earliest structure in Mahabalipuram, and a hidden gem if you want to understand the origins of Pallava art.

– Tiger Cave (Yali Mandapam): It’s a rockcut temple named after Yali – a mythical creature with the body of a tiger/lion, head of an elephant (Gaja Yali), or a human (Nara Yali), or a dog (Svana Yali).

– Krishna’s Butterball: A gravitydefying 250tonne boulder, previously called Vaan Irai Kal (Stone of Sky God) and Vishnu’s Butterball, but thenPM Indira Gandhi mistakenly called it Krishna’s Butterball in 1969, and the name has persisted.

– Shore Temple: An architectural masterpiece, it consists of two sanctums (one dedicated to Lord Shiva, and another to Lord Vishnu), and is built of cut stones and blocks of granite.

– Descent of the Ganga River and Arjuna’s Penance: Measuring 29 metres by 13 metres, it’s a huge structure with carvings on two monolithic rocks. The descent of the Ganga from the Himalayas is shown between the rocks, and a person standing on one leg is interpreted to be Arjuna who is about to receive the Pasupata, Shiva’s most powerful weapon, for fighting the Mahabharata war.

– Pancha Rathas (Five Rathas): Five rockcut monoliths that look like rathas (chariots) of Dharmaraja (Yudhishthira), Arjuna, Bhima, Nakula and Sahadeva, and Draupadi. Of these, the Draupadi Ratha is the smallest, and those of Yudhishthira and Bhima are the largest.

Where to stay?

There are two options:

– Luxury resorts such as Sheraton Grand Chennai Resort & Spa, Radisson Blu Resort Temple Bay, and Intercontinental Chennai Mahabalipuram Resort, all of which have private beaches, lavish rooms, and finedining restaurants, but you need a private transport to go to Mahabalipuram.

– If you want to explore the city on foot – and immerse yourself in history – choose budget accommodations (about Rs 2,000 per day) located at a stone’s throw away from these majestic stone carvings. Many of these also have rooftop cafes. But most don’t have car parking facility.

Did you know?

The Shore Temple is believed to be one of seven such complexes in Mahabalipuram – and mediaeval travellers such as Marco Polo also mentioned seven such structures (he called these the Seven Pagodas of Mamallapuram). Modern research has found that there, indeed, are six similar temples that remain submerged in the Bay of Bengal, and which locals say were seen during the 2004 Tsunami when the sea had temporarily receded.

World Heritage Site

Collectively called the Group of Monuments at Mahabalipuram, it was inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1984 – chosen for its outstanding universal value, because of its rich cultural and architectural heritage.

The car we chose

We chose the BMW 2 Series Gran Coupe – a sporty sedan that drives almost sticking to the road. BMW’s smallest car, its bookings have been opened and it will be launched on July 17.

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