The tuna melt is a decidedly American sandwich. Here, Grace Parisi has given it an Italian twist with imported tuna, marinated artichokes, and green olives. If you can find it, creamy, delicate Robiola cheese is terrific melted on top.
While canned tuna in general can be packed in oil or water, Italian canned tuna is typically packed in olive oil, whereas American canned tuna is more commonly packed in water. Italian tuna packed in olive oil is rich and tender; it’s marinated in the oil for an extended period before being canned, which means the flavors have more time to develop and evenly absorb. Plus, canned Italian tuna is known for its relatively low levels of mercury, in part because it’s often processed from younger yellowfin and skipjack as opposed to large albacore.
Made from cow, sheep, or goat milk — or a combination thereof — Italy’s soft-ripened Robiola is balanced and complex. Its flavor is mild, fresh, and buttery, often with a bit of tang as well as earthy, mushroom-like notes. If it’s not available, Brie makes a wonderful substitute here.
Keeping with the Italian flavor profile, these tuna melts are assembled on ciabatta. Four long ciabatta rolls are ideal, but a long loaf is great, too. The bread is brushed with olive oil, toasted under the broiler, then rubbed with a clove of garlic before the tuna salad is heaped on top.
Bright, berry-inflected rosato.
