I went to London's best Chinatown restaurant - my leftovers tell the real story
Football January 14, 2025 12:39 AM

As the Year of the Snake looms, every Londoner is asking the same question: where's the best place to celebrate Chinese New Year?

With lanterns twinkling overhead and the aroma of incense blending with sizzling woks, I decided to explore Soho's Chinatown. My destination was one of the most buzzed-about locations; Four Seasons on Gerrard Street, crowned as Chinatown's top restaurant by VisitLondon.

But does it live up to its reputation? My leftovers tell the tale.

This may share its name with the luxury hotel chain, but that's where the similarities end – and that's part of this place's charm.

Nestled on Gerrard Street, it's everything you'd want from a Chinatown staple, a cacophony of sizzling woks, quick-footed waitstaff, and an aromatic onslaught that hits you like a tasty tsunami. The controlled chaos is part of the allure, reports .

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The menu boasts the usual dishes – including sweet and sour, lemon, and black bean sauces – but the must-try dishes here are the three pillars of Cantonese cuisine: roast duck, char siu pork and crispy pork. While I can't personally vouch for their -renowned duck (which, according to the Financial Times, is the best in the world), I can rave about the vegetarian options that had me doing a joyous jig in my seat.

The braised mixed vegetables with tofu (£13.80) is comfort food that feels like a warm embrace from your favourite auntie.

The dumplings (£8 for 4) are like little bundles of happiness, and the house special fried noodles (£14.80) are so generous they'll cover both lunch and a midnight snack. Believe me, finding portions this size in Central London is as rare as a peaceful moment outside Brixton tube station.

You can pair it all with a Chinese tea (£2.80). I left with plenty of leftovers. Perfect.

But don't plan on lingering over your Chinese tea - when it's busy, those meaningful looks from the staff aren't admiration for your chopstick skills.

They might just be sizing up your table to give it to a family of five. Let's face it – you're not getting VIP treatment here.

The service style is more "efficiency is our middle name" than "let me tell you about our hand-foraged mushrooms."

But when the food tastes this good, they could practically throw it at you and you'd still come back for more.

While other restaurants in the area might be busy fusion-ing their way into confusion, Four Seasons sticks to what it knows: traditional Chinese cuisine done so well it makes you wonder why anyone would try to reinvent the wheel (or should I say Lazy Susan).

In a city where restaurants often try to be everything to everyone, Four Seasons is content being exactly what it is: a Chinatown stalwart that proves sometimes the old ways are the best ways. Just don't expect to make it your new remote working spot – this place is for eating and eating only.

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