In the bustling city of London, it's challenging to pinpoint one single thing that encapsulates its essence. Music and fashion trends ebb and flow with the transient population who call London home before moving on.

Despite not being renowned for its culinary delights, there is one tradition that has stood the test of time for over a century - the iconic East End bakeries, a unique gastronomic feature that distinguishes the capital from other UK cities. As a Geordie who recently moved to London, I was initially unaware of the significance of these local bakeries, offering an array of wheat products, until I witnessed their cherished status within the community.

It's a tradition I've come to respect and admire, even as an outsider with limited knowledge. The narrative often revolves around the battle between long-established independents and powerful corporate chains, and this scenario is no different.

Gail's Bakery, which was launched on Hampstead High Street in 2005 by entrepreneurs Gail Mejia and Tom Molnar, is a London business success story. There are rumours that it could soon be sold in a £500 million deal.

However, its rapid growth has sparked concern among small businesses who fear its expansion could lead to the downfall of independent shops and an increase in commercial rents. Last summer, Walthamstow residents petitioned against a Gail's opening in their area, with similar protests now reported in Stoke Newington, reports .

Despite its corporate image, from the sleek white minimalism of its branding and interiors to its origins as a venture by two experienced entrepreneurs, Gail's prides itself on its 'passion' for producing high-quality bread. This isn't a family business passed down through generations, but a 21st-century enterprise that is clearly succeeding, as the Gail's brand begins to expand beyond London, with talk of 35 new branches on the horizon.

With an open mind, I ventured into a local Gail's bakery for the first time, clueless about what to expect from their menu. As I approached the counter, I was greeted by a seemingly young and inexperienced server.

The menu wasn't extensive, offering choices between sourdough or bagels with various spreads, and a more substantial option of double eggs with either bacon or salmon. However, as I began to place my order, the server abruptly walked away mid-sentence without any explanation, leaving me standing at the counter feeling rather foolish.

After consulting with a colleague, she returned and I resumed ordering. I opted for a bagel with almond butter sauce and jam (£4) and was considering the double eggs and bacon (£8.70) as a main course.

However, I was informed they had run out of eggs. It was only 2pm, the cafe was half full, and there were still four hours of trading left - it seemed inexcusable for a branch like this to be caught short.

When I asked what else I could choose, the server vaguely gestured towards the limited menu. Bacon?

No, they couldn't do that.

Salmon?

Yes. So, for £4.60, I ordered a plate of salmon, accompanied by a strong latte.

I ponder, should I proceed with this review?

Is it just?

Should I opt for another Gail's?

But then it strikes me, this branch is as much a part of the entire chain. And it's not my responsibility to ensure they're well-stocked and that staff are trained in customer service.

I'm abruptly given a metal stand with the number '6' and informed, "This is how we'll know to give it to you". I head to my table with my metallic "6", feeling somewhat like a prisoner at His Majesty's Pleasure.

My double latte, which - first problems, I have to fetch myself - is perfectly fine. It's milky and not overly potent but it still tastes robust enough for my liking.

I'd rate it above Costa but not as scrumptious as Caffe Nero (for my thoughts on those see my review HERE). The food arrives and my two bagels are nicely toasted, crunchy on the outside and doughy on the inside, with a sauce of almond butter and jam.

The almond butter is delicious on its own, it's thick and nutty, I'd happily purchase one of the tubs on sale but it's probably too heavy for the toasted bagels - next time, I'd opt for regular butter that melts. The jam is delightful, almost liquid-like and does a good job of moistening the breaded goods.

Moving on to my salmon and... I realise I have no cutlery. Am I expected to use my hands and walk around with fish-scented fingers all day?

Or perhaps I'm supposed to utilise the knife that came with my bagels?

Regardless, I resort to using the knife to clumsily cut and lift it to my mouth.

It's perfectly acceptable, chilled, juicy and nicely smoked - but I'm let down that this was all that was on offer. I've tried my utmost to give it a fair chance, but the reality is I don't enjoy any of it - even the décor.

What appears cool and stylish to one person can seem vacant and devoid of character to another. The interiors are, as I mentioned, white and minimalistic, featuring industrial metal counters and doors, and hanging lamps with spider-like cages beneath them, which appear to serve no function.

Loaves of bread are piled in the window and untouched bottles of sauce are lined up on counters like unused props. Creating an atmosphere isn't a tick-box exercise.

Perhaps the Gail's branch I'm in is a poor example and not reflective of the entire chain, but if it plans to expand across Britain, then this poor example is a warning sign of what's to come. It doesn't bode well for Gail's if this is the level of service customers can anticipate, and as for local independents, if they can outperform (and there's no reason why a dedicated business owner couldn't), then maybe when the dust settles, they'll still be standing in ten years with another newcomer on the scene.